SAVANNAH, Ga. — We were standing in front of the First African Baptist Church in Savannah, a registered historic landmark. It’s home to the oldest continuous Black congregation in the nation, established in 1773. The current church building, with its tall bell tower and duo red doors, was completed in 1859.

“The red painted doors meant the property was paid for,” said Fritz Rumpel, local historian and owner of 40 Acres and a Mule tour company. “It was financed and built by enslaved people who worked on its construction mostly at night, after working on plantations all day.”

We went to Savannah to learn about the city’s rich African American and civil rights history, and Rumpel was a wellspring of knowledge. He and his wife, Lorrie, spent 12 years researching letters, stories, and archival materials, then created and produced the play “Let My People Go,” about the history of slavery in Savannah. His 90-minute private walking tour throughout historic Savannah includes much of his findings, detailing the city’s role in promoting slavery throughout the South and the driving force of faith to survive and triumph over it.

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We lingered in the square as Rumpel told us the story of Andrew Bryan, one of the founders of the First African Baptist Church, who was publicly whipped and imprisoned for preaching. Many slave owners had forbidden their slaves to listen to Bryan’s sermons. Bryan would not capitulate and would later be revered and honored for his actions.

Later, Congregationalists would gather at the church to raise some $2,000 for the Bryan School, one of the first schools for Blacks, established in January 1865.

“More than 350 schoolchildren walked right down here, singing for freedom,” said Rumpel, as we walked through City Market and he played the gospel song “We Shall Be Free,” from his portable speaker. He pointed out the former school building (now a storefront) that was ironically (and sadly) once the office and brokerage for a prominent slave trader.

“There were still stacks of bills of sale for slaves. The children turned them over and used them for paper,” Rumpel said. “I guess that’s what you call turning the page.”

We walked to Johnson Square, the oldest and largest square in Savannah, surrounded by some of the city’s most opulent buildings, including City Hall, Christ Episcopal Church, and several banks. “The slave traders were operating right here,” Rumpel said. “At the end of the block was Negro Yard, where the slaves were held before auction. The first Tuesday of the month, families walked down the street in handcuffs to be auctioned off.”

The first Civil War secession rally was also held in Johnson Square. On Nov. 8, 1860, a large crowd gathered to oppose the election of Abraham Lincoln and called for a state secession convention. They raised the first secession flag in the South, with the image of a coiled snake and the words “Southern Rights. Equality of the States. Don’t Tread on Me.”

Leaving the square, Rumpel stopped again to show us a copy of a poster advertising a slave auction. In March 1857, during two rainy days at a racetrack located just outside downtown, 436 men, women, and children were sold. It was one of the largest slave auctions in the history of America.

“Some thought it became known as The Weeping Time because of the rain,” Rumpel said. “But we know it was the heavens that were weeping. The rain stopped when the auction was over.”

Our final stop was Madison Square, where Rumpel pointed out the Green-Meldrim House. This grand 1864 Gothic Revival home is where Union General William Tecumseh Sherman headquartered during the end of the Civil War after his March to the Sea, and where he famously gifted Savannah to President Lincoln. It is also where he issued, on Jan. 16, 1865, his legendary Field Orders, No. 15, the first attempt to provide a form of reparation to newly freed slaves.

Four days before, Sherman and Secretary of War Edwin M. Stanton had met with 20 Black ministers and asked them what they would need to take care of themselves and succeed in life. They answered: land. Sherman confiscated 400,000 acres of private land owned by Confederates, largely along the Sea Islands, and redistributed it to freed slaves in 40-acre plots. It came to be known as the 40 Acres and a Mule Order. (Mules weren’t officially mentioned in the order but some freed slaves received them.) Alas, it was very short-lived. On April 15, 1865, President Lincoln was assassinated and Andrew Johnson, a sympathizer with the South, took office, overturning the order in the fall of 1865.

“Isn’t it ironic?” Chuck Ward, our traveling companion said. We were dining at Planters Tavern in the cellar of The Olde Pink House, enjoying blackened oysters, sweet local crab cakes nestled between two fried green tomato slices, and sauteed shrimp with country ham gravy and a cheddar cheese grits cake. Ironic because when James Oglethorpe founded Savannah and the colony of Georgia in 1733, slavery was forbidden. His vision: to create a classless, egalitarian society where all could make a better life.

Savannah has several other places to learn about its Black history and African American heritage. The Pin Point Heritage Museum, located in a former oyster and crab factory on the banks of the Moon River, is a fascinating place to learn about Savannah’s Gullah Geechee culture. The museum, with pretty views of the marshlands, includes a variety of exhibits and multimedia presentations exploring the history and lives of the freed slaves who worked and lived here (about 150 descendants of Pin Point still do) and were isolated enough to keep their own traditions and language.

The Owens-Thomas House and Slave Quarters offers a peek into the lives and relationships of the wealthy families and their enslaved people during the early 19th century.

The Savannah African Art Museum has an impressive display of 19th- and 20th-century art from West and Central Africa, including ceramic, metal, wood, glass, and fiber. All visits are guided, with free admission.

The Ralph Mark Gilbert Civil Rights Museum, named after the Rev. Dr. Ralph Mark Gilbert, the 13th pastor of the First African Baptist Church, details the history of Savannah’s civil rights movement and the story of the “freedom fighters” of the local chapter of the NAACP. There are three floors of exhibits, documentaries, and photos.

SAVANNAH, Ga. (WTOC) - A young man is heartbroken after he said a scheduled gender affirmation surgery was canceled abruptly.

Now he’s left with more questions about what comes next.

Gender affirming surgery can be anything that changes a person’s physical appearance to resemble those that align more with their gender identity.

It can be lifesaving for transgender individuals.

So when this Savannah man claimed his surgery was no longer being offered, he was devastated.

“I’d be able to breathe for the first time. I’d be so free,” said Indigo.

It was freedom that Indigo was hoping his upcoming surgery would bring him.

Right now, he wears a binder to compress his chest.

“If I’m not wearing a binder, then I’m completely disassociating from my body at all times,” said Indigo.

Indigo was set to have a mastectomy soon and had scheduled the surgery here in town.

Then he got a call.

“On Thursday, we got a call from Seaport Plastic Surgery saying that Memorial Health had pulled gender-affirming surgeries from their roster, basically. They’re not going to be continuing doing any gender-affirming surgeries with Seaport,” said Indigo.

Indigo was crushed.

“It’s absolutely devastating to keep trying and trying and trying only to be basically pulled from under the rug to not even be able to have a chance to do it anymore,” said Indigo.

For him this was not just about appearances.

Indigo hoped this surgery would help with his mental health as well.

“Getting on testosterone from my first day was the first time I’ve ever felt a need to live,” said Indigo.

We asked if he has plans to try to get a procedure somewhere else, even out of state if needed.

“This is it. I can’t, I can’t go anywhere else. It’s too expensive to go anywhere else,” said Indigo.

WTOC spoke with Memorial Health over the phone.

They would not do an on-camera interview, but they did give us a statement.

See the full statement below:

We tried to get clarity from Memorial on what changed or could have caused Indigo’s surgery to be canceled.

They referred us back to their written statement.

The Savannah Pride Center released a statement in response.

Copyright 2025 WTOC. All rights reserved.

All across Savannah, restaurants and hotels are offering packages and prix fixe menus to celebrate what began in the year 496 as the Feast of St. Valentine's.

Love most certainly will be in the air this weekend, but if food is your love language, only a shared meal will satiate your desire for connection. Think dim lights, an intimate table for two, savory dishes and impeccable service for starters.

So, what places speak the language of romance and reckless appetites? Here are just a few that melt our butter.

Bella Napoli

The moment you step into this pocket-sized Italian eatery on State Street, your nose tingles with the scent of garlic and you can almost hear Billy Joel whisper, "A bottle of red. A bottle of white." Let your fingers touch as you swipe thick slices of warm sourdough baguette through balsamic-flecked olive oil. Save one or two crostinis to soak up that last bit of lemony butter from the Shrimp Portofino. Reach across the table to offer your mate a bite of salty puttanesca and remember, the ultimate show of affection is letting them have the last bite of tiramisu.

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18 E. State St., Savannah, bellanapolibistro.com

Common Thread

The mystique of a restored Victorian-era home is undeniable. (It evokes the romance and fantasy of the cult classic "Somewhere in Time," with one foot in this century and another in yesteryear.) So, too, is the draw of a sumptuous four-course dinner that begins with oysters dressed in black garlic, mustard greens, apple and chili flakes. Let yourself fall into reverie as seasonally inspired dishes arrive, paired with the perfect wine―crisp or velvety, take your pick. Then, take your time and savor every moment and bite snuggled on the same side of the table.

122 E. 37^th St., Savannah, commonthreadsavannah.com/

Diner Bar at The Grey

There is a meet-cute vibe to the elegant and cozy Diner Bar at The Grey. The restored mid-century setting practically invites two passengers heading in different directions to purchase tickets to a new destination together. Maybe a little light role playing is in order in one of the swank booths, sipping on a French 75 and a Manhattan, while sharing plates of lusty pickled oysters, salty sardines and lamb roti with some smoky pepper.

109 Martin Luther King Jr. Blvd., Savannah, thegreyrestaurant.com

More than words:The art of sending meaningful messages with Valentine's Day bouquets

Love, romance and chocolate:Five ways to indulge this Valentine's Day, Savannah style!

Elizabeth on 37th

If elegance had an address it would land at the corner of 37th and Drayton streets in the Thomas Square Streetcar District. Elizabeth on 37th is the grande dame of fine dining in Savannah, but she does not truck in pretension. The ever-evolving seasonal, seven-course chef's tasting menu inspires rhapsodies of Mmms and Ohhs―and sometimes silence―as the fresh flavors tantalize the taste buds. The convivial service is thoughtful without being solicitous and makes you feel as welcome as a treasured guest.

105 E. 37^th St., Savannah, elizabethon37th.net/

The Savoy Society

Remember the heady days before mortgages, car pools and comfortable shoes? When dressing up was clutch from Thursday night through Sunday? There is a place where you can check out of real life for a few hours and slip into the former you, the one that turned their head. Savoy Society is a bright spot on the corner of Liberty and Floyd streets where Bahaus meets pre-revolution Havana, as sleek and tropical as the chilled cocktails and as spicy as the small plates of Totchos and Mega Toast.

102 E. Liberty St., Suite 109, savoysociety.com

Please share your favorite restaurants and places to enjoy a romantic meal. Send your suggestions to [email protected].

SAVANNAH, Ga. (WTOC) - A statewide child exploitation operation dubbed “Operation Byte Down” has led to the arrest of 17 people across Georgia.

According to the Georgia Bureau of Investigation, GBI Child Exploitation and Computer Crimes Unit, along with 33 other agencies that are members of the Georgia Internet Crimes Against Children (ICAC) Task Force, participated in the operation.

Operation Byte Down identified 13 children that were living in households where online child sexual exploitation was occurring and one of those arrested admitted to current or prior hands-on sexual offenses against a child.

The GBI says the following people were arrested during Operation Byte Down and charged with Sexual Exploitation of Children and other related offenses:

The GBI says Operation Byte Down was a statewide, multi-jurisdictional coordinated effort by the Georgia ICAC Task Force to identify and arrest those involved in technology facilitated crimes against children.

They said Operation Byte Down involved months of planning and included both proactive and reactive cases investigated by the GBI and affiliate agencies with the Georgia ICAC Task Force.

The GBI says proactive investigations consisted of targeting peer-to-peer network users sharing Child Sexual Abuse Material (CSAM), commonly known as child pornography, and undercover chat investigations targeting those that communicate with and arrange to meet who they believe to be a child for the purpose of engaging in sexual acts.

Reactive investigations consisted of working CyberTips received from the National Center for Missing and Exploited Children that involved the possession, distribution, and/or manufacturing of CSAM, according to the GBI.

The GBI says during Operation Byte Down, law enforcement agencies within the Georgia ICAC Task Force executed 30 residential search warrants across the State of Georgia.

They say these search warrants and other enforcement actions resulted in the arrest of 17 people.

Digital forensic investigators previewed 137 electronic devices on scene and seized 361 electronic devices, including cellular phones, tablets, computers, hard drives, and various electronic data storage devices.

More arrests are possible once complete forensic processing of the seized electronic devices are complete, according to the GBI.

In addition to the GBI, the host agency for the Georgia ICAC Task Force, the following agencies participated in Operation Byte Down:

The GBI says this investigation is part of the ongoing effort by the Georgia Internet Crimes Against Children (ICAC) Task Force, housed within the GBI’s Child Exploitation and Computer Crimes Unit, to identify those involved in the trade of child sexual abuse material.

The ICAC Program, created by the U.S. Department of Justice, was developed in response to the increasing number of children and teenagers using the Internet, the proliferation of child sexual abuse material, and the heightened online activity by predators searching for unsupervised contact with underage victims.

Anyone with information about other cases of child exploitation is asked to contact the Georgia Bureau of Investigation Child Exploitation and Computer Crimes Unit at 404.270.8870 or report via the National Center for Missing and Exploited Children CyberTipline.

Anonymous tips can also be submitted by calling 1-800-597-TIPS (8477), online, or by downloading the See Something, Send Something mobile app.

Copyright 2025 WTOC. All rights reserved.

Love, romance and chocolate is not just the name of a Lacey Chabert Hallmark movie. It is also a way of life for lovers in Savannah. Now, we get―and agree wholeheartedly―that love should be celebrated on the daily. In fact, love is exactly what this world needs more of. So in that spirit, we offer a few suggestions for indulging in all the sensual delights of the heart this season with a little romance and a lot of chocolate (which can be good for you in more ways than one).

Get your Notebooks out

Springfield, Georgia, is only a 40-minute drive from Savannah, yet feels like a romantic getaway to the country, especially over the Valentine’s Day weekend with the Mars Theatre’s Sweetheart Package.

The intimate mid-century movie house, 106 S. Laurel St., re-opened after an extensive rehab and upgrade in 2014. From Feb. 14-16, the Mars will host screenings of the heart-tugging, classic love story The Notebook over the weekend. The film romantically frames the South Carolina Lowcountry landscape in which it was filmed as stars Ryan Gossling and Rachel McAdams argue, fall in love, forget, remember, and fall in love all over again.

Sweethearts (or gal pals) can go all in on the screening package with chocolate-covered strawberries from Central Station Bakery and Eatery along with a glass of prosecco.

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The Mars Theatre will award one swooning couple the Sweetheart Package for free through its “Write Your Love Story” contest. Just share your love story in 100 words or less through the DMs at facebook.com/MarsTheatre or instagram.com/mars_theatre/.

Reserve your seats at marstheatre.com.

Head to the Library

Does your significant other enjoy browsing the shelves? Take him or her to Adam Turoni’s Chocolat Library at 236 Bull St., where they can fill a tray or a Golden Carazon Chocolate Box ($75) with romantic truffles filled with such flavors as Raspberry Chambord, Red Velvet Cake, Blood Orange, Mexican Mocha, and Heart and Passion Fruit.

The real kicker is you get to share the spoils…and maybe feed them to each other. chocolatat.com/

Feeling a little randy?

In the mood for some Berry Bondage or a slice of Caress My Carrot? Then head over to dimly lit Better Than Sex Dessert Restaurant, 410 W. Broughton St., for a sweetly suggestive experience. Indulge in a French Kiss Affair and spark even greater intimacy with your beloved with a few tantalizing questions. Reservations are recommended. betterthansexdesserts.com/

Mais oui? But, of course.

If breakfast is your jam, take your love to Auspicious Baking Co., 7360 Skidaway Road in Sandfly, for flaky, decadent dark chocolate croissants, red velvet pop tarts, chocolate cupcakes with swirls of strawberry buttercream icing, strawberry marbled and red velvet donuts, and tiramisu for two. Pre-orders end on Feb. 12, so you take your chances standing in line. But, oh, the anticipation … auspiciousbakingco.com/

Belly up to the Chocolate Bar

Lulu’s Chocolate Bar, that is. Whether you head downtown or to Whitemarsh, we recommend starting with the charcuterie board and a glass of bubbly, then moving on to either the fondue for two with the silken dark chocolate or the extravagant three-scoop Rapture Sundae for two served in a chocolate bowl and slathered in sauces. You can enjoy with shots of Chambord, Irish Cream and Meletti Cioccolato Liqueur or sans alcohol. luluschocolatebar.com/